Compost or Manure: Which One to Choose for Your Garden?
To cultivate a productive, sustainable, and naturally fertile vegetable garden, choosing the right organic amendment is essential. Faced with soil fatigue, a decline in organic matter, and the growing demands of growing crops, many gardeners are wondering: compost or manure ? These two natural materials are among the most commonly used to enrich the soil, improve its structure, and stimulate the microbial life essential to a healthy vegetable garden.
But compost and manure don't exactly meet the same needs. One is the result of controlled decomposition of plant waste, the other comes from animal sources, often more concentrated in nutrients. So, should you favor one over the other? Should they be combined? When should they be used and on which crops?
In this article, we provide a clear and detailed overview of compost and manure to help you make the best choice for your soil, climate, and harvest goals. Whether you're growing a few vegetable patches or a large, bountiful garden, you'll find practical answers here to optimize your natural fertilization without resorting to chemicals.
Table of Contents
Compost: black gold in the vegetable garden
Compost organic materials (kitchen waste, grass clippings, dead leaves, shredded branches, etc.). It is a universal amendment, often considered the gardener's "black gold", and for good reason:
- Balanced richness: Compost provides a balanced range of essential nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) as well as trace elements. Its composition will depend on the inputs, but it is generally less concentrated than manure, which reduces the risk of "burning" the plants.
- Improves soil structure: Thanks to its high organic matter content, compost significantly improves soil structure. It lightens heavy, clayey soils, promotes water retention in sandy soils, and increases aeration capacity.
- Stimulation of microbial life: Compost is a real booster for soil microbial life. It encourages the growth of beneficial microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, earthworms) that transform organic matter into stable humus, making nutrients available to plants.
- Absence of weeds and pathogens: A well-matured compost, having reached high temperatures during its decomposition, is generally free of weed seeds and pathogenic germs, which makes it a very safe amendment.
- ecological and economical production: Producing your own compost allows you to recycle your organic waste, thus reducing your ecological footprint and your expenditure on fertilizers.
Manure: Brute force for your vegetable garden
Manure is an organic amendment made from animal excrement (cows, horses, sheep, poultry, etc.) mixed with bedding (straw, shavings, etc.). It is a powerful amendment, traditionally used for its richness in nitrogen .
- Nutrient concentration: Manure, especially fresh manure, is very rich in nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. Its concentration varies depending on the animal and its diet. Poultry manure, for example, is particularly concentrated in nitrogen.
- Fast acting: Nutrients in manure are often more quickly available to plants than those in compost, making it an excellent choice for heavy-duty crops.
- organic matter contribution: Like compost, manure helps increase the organic matter content of the soil, improving its fertility and structure.
- Heat release: Fresh manure releases heat as it decomposes. This property is sometimes used in warm beds to accelerate the germination of early seedlings.
| Characteristic | Compost | Manure |
|---|---|---|
| source | Organic plant and sometimes animal waste | Animal excrement + litter |
| nutritional richness | Balanced, slow and progressive release | Very rich, especially in nitrogen, faster release |
| smell | Earthy, pleasant (if well broken down) | Strong, ammonia (especially fresh) |
| use | Universal, substantive and surface amendment | Basic amendment, ideal for gourmet crops |
| risks | Minimes (if mature) | Plant burn (if fresh and excessive), weeds |
| availability | Easy to produce yourself | Requires access to breeding facilities |
| cost | Free (if homemade) | Varies by source, sometimes free |
Compost or manure: how to use them?
There is no absolute winner in the compost vs. manure battle. The ideal choice will depend on your specific needs and situation.
Compost, your versatile ally: For regular enrichment of your soil, improvement of its structure and maintenance of active microbial life, mature compost is unrivaled. It can be incorporated into the soil before planting, used as mulch or topdressing to gradually nourish your crops. It is the ultimate basic amendment for a healthy and balanced garden in the long term.
Manure, the boost: manure (aged at least 6 months to 1 year) is ideal for nutrient-intensive crops like squash, tomatoes, potatoes, or corn. It should be incorporated into the soil in the fall or winter so that it has time to disintegrate and its nutrients are available in the spring. Caution: Fresh manure should not be applied directly to crops because it can "burn" the roots and encourage disease development. If you only have access to fresh manure, mix it with other organic matter before using it.
General composition of manure
The NPK (Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium) of a manure varies considerably depending on several factors, including:
- The original animal: Each species has a different diet and metabolism, which impacts the composition of its droppings.
- Bedding used: Straw, shavings, or other bedding materials can dilute or add nutrients.
- Freshness of manure: Fresh manure has a different composition than composted or aged manure. The composting process stabilizes nutrients and reduces the risk of plant “burn.”
- Storage conditions: Improper storage can lead to nutrient losses through leaching or volatilization.
That being said, here are some indicative average values for the NPK of different manures, generally expressed as a percentage of weight (N-P₂O₅-K₂O):
Horse manure:
- Well-rotted manure: Approximately 0.6% N – 0.4% P₂O₅ – 0.7% K₂O. It is often considered balanced.
- Horse manure tends to get very hot as it decomposes, which can be an advantage for warm beds.
Sheep manure:
- Generally: Around 2% N – 0.8% P₂O₅ – 1.5% K₂O. (Source Vaalserberg Garden)
- Another source gives 7.0 N – 6.3 P – 17.6 K (in units per tonne), which shows the variability of the data between analyses.
- Sheep manure is often considered to be rich in potash.
Chicken manure (droppings):
- Generally (pellets or pure droppings): Approximately 4% N – 3% P₂O₅ – 3% K₂O. This is one of the richest manures, especially in nitrogen.
- Nitrogen from chicken droppings is readily available to plants. However, fresh manure can be highly concentrated and can burn plants if applied in excess.
Cattle (cow) manure:
- Typically: Approximately 2.5% N – 2.9% P₂O₅ – 2.9% K₂O (for pelleted manure).
- Values can vary considerably for fresh manure, for example, an average of 0.6% N, 0.5% P₂O₅, 3.4% K₂O for young manure.
- Cattle manure is a good source of stable organic matter that improves soil structure.
Rabbit manure:
- Fresh manure: Approximately 2% N – 2-4% P₂O₅ – 1% K₂O.
- It is a "cold" manure that does not heat up much, and it is often considered to be richer in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium than other manures, with ratios sometimes cited around 2-1-1. It is often recommended for composting because its nitrogen helps break down other materials.
Key points to remember:
- These values are averages. The exact composition may vary depending on the animals' diet, the proportion of litter and the degree of decomposition.
- Fresh vs. composted manure: Fresh manure is richer in readily available nitrogen, but it can be too strong for plants and contain pathogens or weed seeds. It is best to compost it before use. Well-rotted manure is more stable, releases its nutrients gradually, and is safer for crops.
- Soil Test: The best way to know what your soil needs is to do a soil test. This will allow you to precisely adjust your inputs according to deficiencies or excesses.
What is a worm composter?
The worm composter is a composting system that uses specific earthworms (usually Eisenia fetida or Eisenia andrei ) to break down organic waste into a rich compost called vermicompost domestic use , including in apartments, because it does not give off bad odors if well maintained, and takes up little space.
Unlike the classic composter, which relies mainly on microbial processes, the worm composter incorporates intense biological activity thanks to the worms, which accelerates the degradation process.
Functioning
The worm composter is often made up of several stacked trays:
Fresh waste is placed in the top tray.
Worms naturally move up to look for food.
Once the waste is digested, it leaves a fine, black compost in the lower bins.
A tap or reservoir at the bottom often allows for the collection of compost tea , a nutrient-rich liquid fertilizer
The worms feed mainly on plant waste (peelings, coffee grounds, dry bread, etc.) and transform this organic matter into fertile humus, rich in nutrients for plants.
Benefits
Compact and discreet : It can be installed in a kitchen, laundry room or on a balcony.
Fast production : Compost is produced in a few weeks, faster than with a conventional garden composter.
Double Fertilization : Both solid vermicompost and liquid compost tea can be used as fertilizers.
Ecological : It allows up to 30% of household waste to be recovered, reducing the quantity of waste sent to incineration or landfill.
Low maintenance : Worms are self-regulating, just feed and maintain good conditions.
Disadvantages and precautions
Temperature sensitivity : Worms live ideally between 15°C and 25°C. Below 10°C or above 30°C, their activity slows down significantly or even stops.
Humidity monitoring : Too dry or too humid, the tray may become unsuitable. The balance must be checked regularly.
Sorting required : Some waste is not suitable (excess citrus fruits, garlic, onion, dairy products, meat, fatty or spicy foods).
Gradual start : It takes time for the worm colony to adapt and the process to reach optimal speed.
Who is it suitable for?
People living in apartments or houses without gardens.
Those who want to reduce their ecological footprint on a daily basis.
Gardeners wishing to produce their own quality natural fertilizer.
Compost or manure or both
Why not combine the two? Many experienced gardeners opt for a complementary approach: manure for a powerful initial nutrient boost, and compost for regular maintenance and ongoing improvement of soil structure.
Ultimately, whether you choose compost, manure, or a combination of the two, the key is to listen to your soil and observe your plants. Their needs evolve, and thoughtful organic fertilization is the key to a thriving and productive garden.
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