Today, we're going to talk about the big news in the vegetable garden, the one that gets all gardeners excited: sowing tomatoes! And believe me, it's really the starting signal, the signal for the start of the full season. I'm sharing with you all my experience to make your tomatoes a success .
You see, when you're in front of your freshly filled pots of potting soil, with all the seed packets spread out on the table, there's this impatience that rises, this excitement... Because this year more than ever, we really want to grow, harvest and especially eat our own homegrown tomatoes! And frankly, a homegrown tomato has nothing to do with store-bought tomatoes, you know that if you're a gardener. I can't wait to bite into these incredible fruits again.
Table of Contents
First tip for successful tomato planting: don't sow too early!
So there you have it, I know that on all the gardening forums, you've already seen tons of photos of well-advanced sowing. But honestly, wait! I'll explain why I'm only sowing now, mid-March in my region of the south of France.
It takes about six weeks to sow tomatoes from a small seed to a beautiful, ready-to-eat plant. Six weeks takes us to the beginning of May. And at the beginning of May, even here in the South, there's still a risk of frost, as you can imagine! So there's really no point in starting any earlier. Otherwise, you risk having plants that are ready too early and will vegetate uselessly in their pots. It's pointless.
And you know what? I've noticed it year after year: tomatoes planted at the end of May, they catch up, LARGELY, with those planted at the beginning of May. Sometimes they even surpass them! There is no benefit to planting earlier. None.
The goal isn't just for the plants to not die, it's for them to GROW! For them to explode with vigor! And for that to happen, daytime and nighttime temperatures really need to have risen significantly. So generally not before mid-May, or even the end of May depending on your region.
Making your own potting soil: the miracle solution when garden centers are closed
So here, I'm going to share something great with you! With garden centers sometimes closed or even out of potting soil, I'm lucky, GREATLY lucky, to have raw materials that allow me to make my own potting soil. And even without needing soil from the vegetable garden!
Let me explain: I use shredded wood. I collect tons of it from landscapers who leave it for me, and I also go to the recycling center. I sift it all through to get a good, well-made compost. Then I add coarse sand, which helps lighten the mix when I feel it's a bit too heavy. And finally, I use leaf compost. I collect all the dead leaves every year in the village, and twelve to eighteen months later, it makes a nice, rich compost.
For the proportions, I put about half green waste compost, a quarter sand and a quarter dead leaf compost. I mix it all together and frankly, it makes a GOOD substrate! It's not too concentrated in minerals, far from it, so there's no risk of burning the roots of our little seedlings. And let's get started on sowing tomatoes!
Well, in the worst case scenario, if you don't have any of that, make do with the soil from your vegetable garden, it will still work!
Variety shows: my favorite moment
I love this part of gardening! Luckily, I was able to prepare my seedlings in advance, because since the garden centers closed, almost all online seed sites are out of stock. It's a pain to get seeds! If you don't have any, supermarket seeds can help: they may not be exceptional, but they do the job.
But frankly, nothing beats seeds for accessing extraordinary varieties that you'll never find commercially. Some are too fragile for sale, others too original or eccentric to be commercialized.
This year, I'm going to test dozens of varieties. First, there are my classics, the ones I replant religiously every season: the Black Crimean, the Beefheart, the Pineapple tomato, the White Peach, the Green Zebra... Reliable and generous varieties that never disappoint me.
And then, I'm also embarking on the discovery of new varieties. With more than ten thousand varieties of tomatoes in the world, we might as well take advantage of each season to explore new flavors and colors. This year, for example, I'm trying the Prunelle, the Romaine Mouchetée, the Evergreen, the Alice Jean, the Wolverine, or even the Ossau Blue with its black-blue-purple shades... truly spectacular varieties!
I can't wait for this crop to take off in the vegetable garden! Tomatoes remain the crop that brings joy and pleasure, especially during these unusual times. I can't wait to see it all grow and enjoy these magnificent fruits.
Light and temperature: two key factors for successful tomato production
Light and temperature are absolutely crucial for successful tomato seedlings. In the first week after sowing, light actually has very little importance: the seeds can even germinate in complete darkness. But as soon as the seedlings appear, the situation changes completely. Light then becomes essential.
It's essential to provide them with maximum exposure to natural light. In my greenhouse, the conditions are ideal, but in your home, there are several solutions: a veranda, a well-oriented bay window, or a window with good sunlight. Specialized LED lighting for seedlings is also an option, but nothing replaces natural light, which is more environmentally friendly and beneficial for plant growth.
Temperature-wise, tomato seedlings are ideally sown at around 20°C. This threshold is less demanding than for peppers or eggplants, which require 25°C. The important thing is to coordinate light and heat well. If your seedlings lack light but are exposed to too much heat, they will "leave": they will grow quickly, too thin, too fragile, in search of light, and risk not surviving.
Conversely, with optimal light and slightly cooler temperatures, seedlings will grow more slowly, but they will be strong and stocky. In my greenhouse, for example, I use minimal night heating, just a few degrees to avoid frost, but I don't aim for a constant 20°C in order to limit electricity consumption. The priority is to protect the seedlings from frost, otherwise they disappear in an instant.
In summary: with 20°C and good light, your seeds will germinate in six to seven days. If your nights are cool, around 5–6°C, germination will be slower (eight to ten days), but your plants will develop very well. The element to absolutely avoid is the combination of excessive heat and lack of light: this is the best way to see your seedlings collapse and weaken.
Watering: a question of balance and feeling
Water is a crucial factor in successful tomato seedlings. The moisture in the growing medium plays a fundamental role: it's the primary source of life and fertility for your seeds. But be careful, it's a real balancing act: too little water and your plants suffer, too much water and the risk of rot or etiolation increases.
For my part, I rely on feeling. I touch the soil and assess its moisture: a dark color is generally a good indicator that the soil is well hydrated.
It is difficult to give a precise watering frequency, as it depends entirely on the weather conditions. In sunny weather around 20°C, the substrate can dry out very quickly, and daily watering may be necessary. On the other hand, in cooler and gloomy weather (10 to 15°C), the soil can remain moist for several days, or even almost a week without intervention.
The important thing is to remain attentive and adapt your watering according to your seedlings and your environment. Maintaining consistent moisture is essential to promote regular germination and strong, healthy seedlings.
Transplanting: it grows quickly!
After germination, which usually occurs in six to ten days depending on conditions, the seedlings will quickly develop their first “leaves,” called cotyledons. Shortly after, the first two true leaves appear.
It's time to transplant, about twenty days after sowing. The young plants are transferred into individual pots, making sure to push the stem down to the leaves. This technique allows the plant to produce new roots, making it much more robust.
The following weeks are used to let the plants develop undisturbed. Depending on your region, you will need to wait until early, mid, or late May before planting them outdoors. When planting, the stem burying technique will be applied again to encourage additional root formation and ensure strong, vigorous plants.
Hardening off plants: welcome to real life
Before planting your tomatoes outdoors, there's one crucial step: hardening off the plants. Most plants purchased from garden centers, or even those grown in greenhouses, have never been exposed to real-life garden conditions. Going directly from the greenhouse to the great outdoors can be a real shock for them.
To harden them off, bring them outside gradually during the day and, if the nights remain mild (minimum 10°C), you can even leave them outside. This gradual transition allows the plants to get used to the wind, light and temperature variations.
A well-hardened plant is easily recognizable: its internodes are short, the distance between the leaves remains compact, it is stocky and sturdy, and it has already found its place in the great outdoors.
Don't neglect this step! It often makes the difference between a plant that struggles to adapt after planting and one that grows quickly and vigorously.
Choosing the right location: it’s crucial!
One of the keys to successful tomato growing is choosing the right location. In regions like Touraine, planting a tomato plant against a south-facing facade is often ideal: the wall provides some protection from the wind and stores heat to release it gently in the evening.
But where I live in the south, things are different. Full sun is so strong that this exposure risks overheating the plants. Here, I prefer to choose a spot with a little, or even a lot of, shade to prevent the sun from burning the leaves and fruit. The idea is to create a milder microclimate, while still retaining enough light for the tomato to grow properly.
For my cherry tomato bush, I still provided a small stake to anchor it and prevent it from falling over. This is not rigorous staking: it's just a matter of lightly supporting the plant so that it doesn't break under the weight of the fruit.
Before planting, there's one essential step: loosening the soil. My site is a little narrow, so I couldn't use my broadfork. I took a fork and worked the soil until it was really loose. If the fork doesn't go in easily, that's a sign to keep loosening: your tomatoes will thank you with strong roots and healthy growth.
Varietal choice: don't make a mistake!
So here's a very important for successful tomato growing: choosing the right variety! You can sometimes opt for grafted tomatoes , but be careful: they're not all equal. Last year, I tasted quite a few grafted tomatoes and, clearly, the majority weren't great. That said, some were really good, so it can happen... but it's not the rule.
For me, the best choice is often the cherry tomato . These small tomatoes are tough, forgiving and resistant to many situations. They are exactly the kind of plant that is perfect for a small bush at the foot of the house, where they can grow quietly without too much risk.
super important point when you choose your varieties: make sure that they are non-F1 varieties .
Non-F1 varieties , like my Pineapple or Black Crimean tomatoes, are stabilized. Their genetic makeup is fixed, which means you can harvest the seeds and find the exact same tomato the following season. This is perfect if you want to build your collection and reproduce your plants year after year.
F1 varieties , on the other hand, are the result of a cross between two different parents. If you harvest their seeds, you can never be sure you'll get the same tomato. Sometimes it's good, sometimes it can lead to unpleasant surprises. The advantage of F1s is that they are often more productive, more vigorous, and disease-resistant, but they don't reproduce faithfully , so it's generally not recommended to harvest their seeds.
Another interesting situation: grafted plants . Here, for example, some pineapple tomatoes are grafted onto another variety to boost their vigor and productivity. The taste remains very good, and the harvest can be impressive.
The little detail to remember: if you harvest seeds from a grafted plant, you will find the original variety (non-F1), but you will lose the vigor effect of the graft . So it is up to you to decide what is more important to you: the fidelity of the variety or the boosted effect of the graft.
In summary: choosing the right variety, understanding F1 or not, and knowing how to manage grafted plants are essential steps for successful harvests and tasty tomatoes.
Furrow planting: the trick to growing roots
Now we come to an essential step: how to plant your tomatoes so that they develop a strong root system . And here, there is a trick that changes everything: the plant does not stand upright, it lies down in a small furrow .
So I dig a furrow in the loose soil. Then I remove the leaves from the bottom of the plant: this is important, because this is where new roots will form . Then I gently lay the tomato in the furrow, positioning it so that the stem is in contact with the soil, leaving the top of the tomato plant sticking out. The roots will develop all along this stem, strengthening the plant and giving it a solid base.
I then form a small basin around the plant , which will collect the water and direct it towards the new roots. If a small flower appears very quickly, hop, I pinch it off as I go : no question of producing fruit now, the objective is for the plant to take root and strengthen itself above all.
And of course, fertilization remains essential . I put well-ripened manure around it, on the surface, without burying it: it will decompose aerobically and nourish the plant effectively. With this method, your tomatoes will have an ultra-solid start , ready to resist and produce beautiful fruit throughout the season.
Watering the seal: the technique that changes everything
Now we come to a really crucial : the lead watering . The principle is simple but powerful: provide plenty of water as soon as you plant it to expel the air between the soil and the roots, and allow the plant to anchor itself deeply.
So I pour the water generously , several liters per tomato plant, roughly between three and five liters for each tomato. The idea is that the soil is well soaked and that the roots are in direct contact with the humidity , so that they can descend naturally.
After this heavy watering, we stop... and let the plant fend for itself for a week, or even ten days , depending on the weather. Not a drop of additional water during this time: the plant must go down to seek freshness deep down, in the loose, fresh soil that we have prepared.
That's the key: a lot of watering when planting, then total autonomy . This is how you get robust, resistant plants that can do without constant watering while continuing to develop properly. A simple trick, but one that completely changes the life of tomatoes!
Delayed mulching: let it heat up!
Well, something else you'll notice, which may surprise you: I'm not mulching right away! Why? Because the temperatures are still relatively cool. The soil isn't at its optimum temperature.
Here, we have clay soils. These are very cold soils. And if I mulch, I slow down the warming of the soil. So here, I'm going to leave it like that. I don't like to see bare soil and I often like to mulch, as you know. However, here I'm leaving the soil bare on purpose.
It will depend on the weather, but I want the soil to continue to warm up. I'll see it when the weeds emerge. When I have lamb's quarters germinating, it means the soil is starting to warm up. When I have redleaf nightshade emerging, that's when the soil is really warm.
The soil isn't warm yet. So I'm letting the sun's rays reach the earth. And then I'll mulch, but I'll mulch heavily, but not right away.
If it were lettuce, I would mulch right away. Lettuce likes cool soil. If it's tomatoes, they want WARM soil. So I wouldn't mulch right now. That's a really important tip!
Pruning: an option, not an obligation for successful tomato production
Pruning tomatoes is often a topic of debate among gardeners. There are two opposing schools of thought: those who prune and those who let them grow. The good news is that pruning isn't mandatory for successful tomato production! It can speed up ripening and produce slightly larger fruits, but it's just one option among many.
If you decide to prune, consistency is key. It doesn't mean pruning once every eight weeks, but rather about once a week to remove axillary shoots, the suckers that appear between the main stem and the leaves. This practice helps the plant focus its energy on fruit production and improve its crop success.
Pruning cherry tomatoes is often unnecessary. Unless you take a shoot for cuttings, these plants can remain as bushes. They don't need to be pruned or even strictly staked, yet they produce abundant and tasty harvests . This is a great way to grow tomatoes successfully without any extra effort.
Harvesting your own seeds: a valuable step for successful tomato production
To grow tomatoes successfully, harvesting your own seeds is a valuable step. The first step is to choose beautiful, ripe fruit. Ripeness is key: it's not the color that matters, but the feel. If your thumb sinks easily into the tomato, you're sure to have a fully ripe fruit, with perfectly formed seeds inside.
Take the pineapple tomato, for example. The goal is twofold: to collect the seeds and to enjoy the fruit. To extract the seeds, cut the fruit lengthwise and scoop the contents into a small strainer. You don't need hundreds of them; a few dozen are more than enough for your needs, or to trade or barter with other gardeners.
Each seed contains a gelatinous coating. While not essential, removing it slightly improves germination. To do this, place the seeds in a glass of water for a few days. A slight fermentation occurs, which helps dissolve this coating. Then, rinse the seeds thoroughly and remove the gelatinous residue.
Drying is the next step. Avoid full sun and choose a well-ventilated, partially shaded area. Use rigid containers rather than paper towels, which can stick to the seeds. Let dry for one to two days before storing.
To store seeds, place them in paper envelopes away from light and moisture. A simple fold is all it takes to create an effective envelope, which you can then store on a shelf or in a metal box for added security. When stored properly, your seeds will maintain a good germination rate for three to five years. After that, this rate gradually declines: after ten years, it can drop to as low as 10%.
Harvesting and saving your tomato seeds is a simple yet strategic step for successful growing year after year. This not only allows you to preserve your favorite varieties, but also maximizes your chances of harvesting vigorous plants and flavorful fruits, perfectly suited to your vegetable garden.
The question of adaptation: let's be honest
A question often comes up in vegetable gardens: will the seeds harvested this season produce plants the following year that are better adapted to our context, the weather, and our environment? After all, these seeds will have already spent a season in our garden.
To be honest, my experience shows that this phenomenon is rather limited. Trying to "adapt" a variety, especially when it is a non-F1 variety, reproducible identically, does not really produce a noticeable difference from one season to the next.
On the other hand, what I have noticed is that improving my soil, respecting the principles of fertility and gradually enriching the soil, combined with my knowledge which is refined over time, results in increasingly beautiful tomato plants. Richer soil with better moisture retention, a well-acclimatized vegetable garden, that's what makes the difference.
So, to say that seeds will adapt in one, two, or four years seems a bit hasty to me. However, there is clearly a notion of adapted varieties. In talking with the elders of my village or with gardeners from various backgrounds, I noticed that we are primarily looking to save the seeds of the varieties that are best adapted to our local context.
For my part, I'm researching for next season and looking for varieties suited to my terroir and the current, particularly hot weather. I'm talking to gardeners in Texas or Florida to identify varieties that perform well in similar climates. If they succeed, I'll of course harvest their seeds to preserve the quality and identity of the variety. But adapting a variety remains a much more complex challenge.
Some gardeners claim to have "miracle" seeds that adapt after three or four years. Beware of bias, however: often, it's the soil that improves, or the gardener's techniques and knowledge that improve, not the seeds themselves.
The science behind this phenomenon, called epigenetics, is still young and developing. In some beans, for example, adaptations can be observed within two to four years. For tomatoes, much remains to be demonstrated and understood.
This doesn't take away from the value of preserving your beautiful varieties: harvest your seeds, especially those of non-fixed F1 varieties, to guarantee identical plants the following season. And a significant bonus: you get free seeds for next year.
Conclusion: Fingers crossed
Now all that's left is to cross your fingers and hope that the season will be better than the last. But don't panic: there are a multitude of tips for growing tomatoes successfully . The choice of varieties , the location, the timing of mulching , the establishment of a second series... All these strategies allow you to put all the chances on your side to obtain good harvests .
In warmer regions, the first fruits should appear as early as the end of July , while in cooler regions, you will have to wait until the end of August . And if you are a gardener, you know that nothing beats the flavor of a home-grown tomato : very different from those from the store.
Personally, I am so looking forward to rediscovering this pleasure, to seeing my plants grow and to tasting this very rewarding . The tomato remains a crop that brings real joy to the vegetable garden, especially after complicated seasons. After the floods that had put my vegetable garden to the test, I am happy to see life resume and a new garden taking shape .
Sharing this passion for vegetable gardening with other gardeners is a real joy. So take care of your plants, nurture your vegetable garden, and above all... enjoy your future harvests!
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